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Mauritians on the Move, American Style

After three weeks in Mauritius, Reflections on traffic, violence and innovation

I recently returned home to Washington, DC after spending the holidays in Mauritius. As usual, it was three weeks packed with family visits, fun in the sun, professional appointments and many new discoveries and impressions about how Mauritius has changed since the last time we visited two years ago.

I was most surprised by the explosion of development and construction all over the island. Multiple buildings popping up in Ebene's CyberCity. A planned airport expansion at Plaisance. New hotels dotting the coast, with a trend toward multi-service resorts with first-class golf courses and spas. And the rapid turnover of sugar fields into Integrated Resort Schemes, with multi-million dollar houses sporting state-of-the-art kitchens, pools and wi-fi, hidden behind security gates and abutting golf courses.

Black River, often considered one of the least-developed parts of the island - something that I always enjoyed about the region - is also undergoing a building boom. There's a new business park planned across from Ruisseau Creole, and new housing developments taking shape. You no longer have to drive miles for a supermarket, a tennis court, a golf course, a gym or a really good pizza.

I heard more than one resident of Black River complain about the influx of tourists and investments from South Africa, with some fearing that "les Sud Afs" will over-run the island.

All this points to a positive development in the island's economy: a rising middle class. You can see it everywhere: in the number of cars on the roads, in the construction of new schools, the launching of new "Mauritian lifestyle" magazines, the availability of so many more consumer goods, and the explosion of different stores, from those specializing in furniture from Bali, to hyper-supermarkets like Jumbo in Trianon.

As the country pushes forward to find its way in an increasingly global marketplace, it has developed new ideas to attract foreign investment, keep people employed and create a harmonious society. Innovation and adaptability have always been key features of Mauritians. This is obvious with construction of Apollo Bramwell Hospital that offers the latest medical technologies, partnering in new trade deals with China, India, the EU and the U.S., and keeping tourism fresh and upscale with spa hotels, medical tourism and interesting places to visit, such as the lion walks at Casela and the new Rhumerie at Chamarel.

I was especially impressed with the Musée de la Photographie on Rue du Vieux Conseil in Port Louis, a gem of a museum highlighting the history of photography on the island. It is a fascinating way to view Mauritian history, but it is also an excellent example of Mauritian innovation and spirit, as it was created by Tristan Breville, a man with a deep passion for Mauritian history.

I was also pleased to see the number of billboard campaigns around the island carrying health messages, especially those targeted at stopping the high rate of diabetes.

Now for some of the negatives. There's far too much traffic. Traveling in and around Port Louis is as painful and stressful as navigating some of the worst traffic jams in big American cities. The Ring Road is in dire need of construction, and pollution-belching buses need to be equipped with better exhaust systems or replaced with more modern vehicles.

There's too much violence. I was shocked by the number of murders that occurred in just the first few weeks of January. There are also more reports of domestic violence.

There's not enough housing for the elderly. Due to improvements in medical care, Mauritians are living longer than ever before. But services for an aging population remain limited and of inferior quality. There are very few options for housing, especially for seniors requiring long-term medical care. This need is compounded by the push to attract wealthy foreign retirees, who arrive healthy but will require medical services in the future. One concept worth considering is development of Continuous Care Communities, in which elderly persons live in a community of their peers, with on-site medical care available as they age.

There's not enough accommodation for the handicapped. I was shocked by how difficult it was to navigate a wheelchair around Curepipe. When we tried to take a relative to lunch in December, it was like piloting a Jeep through a minefield. There were no ramps. Potholes on the sidewalks and roads were everywhere. Access into stores and restaurants was almost impossible. I was also appalled by the lack of common courtesy among Mauritian people for the presence of a wheelchair, and lack of respect for the person in it.

Bad customer service on the airlines. We were puzzled why Air Mauritius would ticket us on United Airlines from Washington to Paris since that connection involved a change of terminals in Paris for the flight to Mauritius, thus increasing the odds for lost or missed luggage. We also learned that United couldn't give us a boarding pass straight through to Mauritius from Washington because it doesn't have an agreement with Air Mauritius. As we had feared, one of our suitcases didn't arrive in Mauritius for eight days, and we are still trying to sort out compensation, as Air Mauritius says its Air France's responsibility, and Air France says it's Air Mauritius' responsibility. If Mauritius wants to retain a reputation as a top-notch destination, these things need to be resolved and customer service improved.

Overall, however, I have returned to the US with positive impressions to share with our Mauritian friends. "So, tell me," they ask, "What is it really like back home?" Now I know what to say.

New U.S. ambassador arrives soon

Mary Jo Wills, President Obama's appointee as the new U.S. ambassador to Mauritius, is scheduled to arrive in Port Louis on Feb. 18.

With the formalities of a hearing before the U.S. Senate, confirmation by the Senate, and a swearing-in ceremony at the State Department on Jan. 26 behind her, Ms. Wills is finally ready to take up her new post.

She is replacing Cesar B. Cabrera, a Puerto Rican businessman who was appointed by President Bush and ended his stint in Mauritius when Obama was elected. The ambassador post in Mauritius has been vacant for more than a year, as the selection process proceeded and Wills' nomination made its way through the confirmation process.

This will be the first ambassador assignment for Wills, who is a member of the U.S. Foreign Service and as such is considered a career diplomat. She most recently served as Acting Assistant Secretary for African Affairs, and prior to that was Country Director for Southern Africa Affairs. She has held diplomatic positions in Italy, Saudi Arabia, Nigeria, Mexico and Niger.

In her confirmation hearing before the Senate in November, Wills said her priorities as ambassador will include encouraging Mauritius to "engage more deeply and take on stronger leadership roles" in the Indian Ocean region. She mentioned a wider role for Mauritius in UN peacekeeping missions, and in the prosecution of Somali pirates who have been disrupting shipping in the Indian Ocean.

Her work agenda will also include expanding trade relations between the United States in Mauritius, including trade under AGOA, the Trade and Investment Framework Agreement (TIFA) and the new Bilateral Investment Treaty (BIT) that was launched last August.

The U.S. and Mauritius have a long history of diplomatic relations. George Washington sent the first consul to Mauritius in 1794.

Meanwhile, there is still no Mauritian ambassador in Washington since Kailash Ruhee left the post last year. Word is that an appointment might not be made until after elections? The embassy in Washington is now in a new location - a lovely four-story former private home in the Dupont Circle area of the city. The ambassador's office inside, however, remains empty.

Mauritius comes together for Haiti

Family and friends from Oklahoma to Mauritius to Italy are mourning the death of two dedicated United Nations workers who lost their lives in the catastrophic earthquake in Haiti. Officials last week confirmed the deaths of Bhojraj "Sudesh" Luchmun, a field security agent for MINUSTAH, the U.N.'s peacekeeping mission to Haiti, and of Cecilia Corneo Hein, 39, wife of Patrick Hein. Funeral arrangements are being made in Mauritius for Luchmun and in Italy for Corneo.

Luchman, 45, died when MINUSTAH headquarters in Port-au-Prince collapsed during the 7.0-magnitude quake.

His wife, Stenie, and their two children, age 8 and 10, live in Oklahoma, USA, and were there at the time of the earthquake. In an article in the local newspaper in Bethany, OK, Stenie called her husband a "man of faith" who was proud of his professional work, including more than 20 years of experience in the military and police force in Mauritius.

"He was a devoted family man who rose early each morning to say prayers," said Stenie Luchman, who studies at Southern Nazerene University in Oklahoma. "I miss him very, very much." She keeps a photo showing her husband on the sidelines of a soccer field in Bethany, OK, the newspaper said.

Cecilia Corneo Hein, a native of Italy, died when the headquarters of the UN Peacekeeping force collapsed. Her husband, Patrick Hein, also a UN worker, was pulled alive from the rubble. Four other Mauritians were in Haiti at the time and also survived.

Victoria DeLong, a U.S. diplomat who moved to Haiti after her assignment at the U.S. embassy in Mauritius, also died in the quake. Cesar Cabrera, who was the U.S. ambassador to Mauritius when DeLong was posted there, told the Washington Post that DeLong was moved by the poverty in Haiti but also by the resilience of the Haitian people. In Mauritius, Cabrera said they worked closely on issues such as terrorism and piracy.

Over the 27 years she has been in the U.S. Foreign Service, DeLong, age 57, has been posted in Costa Rica, the Congo, Australia, Germany and the Philippines, in addition to Mauritius.

The news out of Haiti continues to be dire, with work now turning to reconstruction of the country's devastated infrastructure, and to caring for the enormous medical needs of thousands who were injured during the mammoth earthquake.

The enormous devastation and suffering has inspired generosity from people around the world. Relief organizations have collected donations from millions of individuals, while governments from Mauritius to Malaysia have responded with generous assistance - often disproportionate to their size in the form of search and rescue, food and water and financial contributions.

The United States has pledged more than $100 million. But some of the outstanding contributions per capita have come from smaller countries, according to the Huffingtonpost.com. Mauritius, for example, has committed $500,000; Morocco $1 million and Norway $866,000.

Those in the literary field are also mobilizing. Khal Torabully, a Mauritian poet living in France, is organizing one such initiative. Khal started an on-line poetry website, called "Poetes pour Haiti - le tout premier livre humanitaire en ligne." It has so far attracted the prose of 50 poets around the world. The website allows writers to express their solidarity with the people of Haiti, while also serving as a collection point for donations. The book can be purchased on the website for 10 Euro. Check it out at: http://haiti2010-secourspoetique.net

Others have noted that Mauritius offers Haiti an interesting example to emulate as it rebuilds its shattered economy.

Writing in the Cape Cod Times, a newspaper in Massachusetts, Tom Gelsthorpe, says that "a natural disaster can provide the opportunity to break free from crippling habits and start anew." He offers the example of Mauritius: "Forty years ago, the island of Mauritius was another overpoulated, poverty-stricken, basket case. Like Haiti, it shares a colonial, sugar island history. Recently, Mauritian leaders decided to modernize. They refused to be daunted by lack of raw materials or distance from global markets. Haiti has enough manpower to rebuild stronger and to employ millions of people in the labor-intensive industries that occupy most countries beginning to modernize: the U.S. 180 years ago, Mauritius 30 years ago, like China now."

And yet in another connection, Jordache, the American apparel company, has donated to Haiti 100,000 pairs of jeans made at its African factories, including a factory in Mauritius, Steven Nakash, president of Jordache told Weekend.

U.S. Navy expands maritime security program

The U.S. Navy is expanding a maritime security program created in 2005 that helps African coastal states including Mauritius counter threats such as piracy and illegal fishing.

The African Partnership Station (APS) is being increased to "more ships, more equipment and more people," Vice Admiral Harry Harris Jr. told a recent Washington briefing. "2010 promises to be the biggest year yet."

The program began five years ago after 11 countries in the Gulf of Guinea asked the United States for help in dealing with piracy and illegal fishing.

"African coastal states are contending with a wide range of challenges at sea, to include illegal unregulated and unreported fishing, oil theft piracy, illicit trade narcotics trafficking, human trafficking, illegal immigration environmental degradation and all sorts of illegal and illegitimate activities," the admiral said.

Harris, who is deputy commander of U.S. Naval Forces in Africa and Europe and NATO naval forces in the Mediterranean, said maritime security is being beefed up through new collaborative partnerships.

Over the past five years, the U.S. Navy has trained thousands of African military in seamanship, search-and-rescue, law enforcement and small boat maintenance.

Harris said the APS expansion will focus on Eastern Africa, and will be called APS East. "This is the first time we've deployed a mission of this scale to the East Coast of Africa," Harris said. "While still smaller than APS West, we have an international staff of about 15 folks from Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique and Mauritius, and two ships dedicated to this mission."

The USS Arleigh Burke visited Mauritius last July as part of APS East, providing training exercises with the Mauritius National Coast Guard.

a m e r i c a n   s c e n e

WEEK-END --- dimanche 7 février 2010